FAQ's

 

Q.: What is the difference between radiant floor heating and more traditional forms of heating like the most common forced air?

 

A.: A simple description: radiant floor heating is one of the most comfortable forms of heating for almost any structure, including your home. The steady heat is radiates upward from the floor to your body.  Because you are in constant contact with the floor, the warm comfort will travel from your feet all the way up your entire body.  

 

• Radiant floor heating is healthy: No dust, particles or allergens are blown around.
• Radiant floor heating is one of the most energy efficient methods to heat a home for several reasons:

1. Radiant heating, similar to standing in the sun on a cold winter day, warms your body and objects in your home, not just the room air (as opposite to a forced-air furnace). This allows you to keep the room air temperature somewhat lower, yet still feel comfortable. By keeping the indoor air temperature lower, there is less heat lost to the outdoors through the walls and windows. If less heat is lost outdoors, your heating system consumes less fuel. Average of one to two percent is saved per degree of lower thermostat setting.

2. Precise control. You are in control the floor temperature, not the air temperature which should stay cool while you are healthy warm from the floor up.

 

Q: Isn’t electric heating EXPENSIVE ?

 

A.: That’s a GREAT BIG MYTH. Unlike gas or oil, electric energy historically has very predictable cost. Among consumer energy purchases, only residential electric services have maintained a low rate of price increase over the past decade. Compared to gasoline, home heating oil, natural gas, and other petroleum-based products, residential electricity prices have remained very stable.

 

Electricity is the future. It is closely related to current and future renewable energy sources such as Solar Photovoltaic Panels or Wind turbines. Our floors convert electric into warmth and comfort at the rate of near 100%.

 

Q: What is the cost of running it?

A: It depends of how much you electric rate is, how much power it will use, what the subfloor made of (wood versus cement slab), where and how it is used (climate zone) and for how long. For example 130 s.f. of the heated flooring (typically good enough for an average size kitchen), done with ELEKTRA MD100/12.0/240V mat, will consume 1200Watts/hour. That’s 1.2kWh. At the current NJ rate of 14 cents per kWh and typical 10 hours a day on the programmable thermostat (wintertime), that’s an average 17 cents per hour or under $2/day.

 

 

Q: Our master bathroom is almost 200 sq.ft. What type of mat or cable do we need?

A: Floor heating is only installed under open areas, not the floor covered by vanities, cabinets, toilets, shower stalls, bathtubs, appliances, kitchen islands, etc.  Having said that, please chalk mark what will be installed there and re-measure the net flooring area. There is a good chance you will need much less than 200 sq.ft. of floor heating.

 

Q: We like the idea of radiant floor heating and our heating contractor convinced us to look into radiant floor heating done with tubes and hot water. Isn’t it better and cheaper to operate?

 

It is yet another big myth. Hydronic (water based) systems are great, but  unfortunately, often twice, three, or even four times more expensive and complicated to install than our precise electric system with electronic controls, with a much higher reliability than pumps, mixing valves, and electromechanical controls. Yes, ‘hydronic’ makes a lot of sense when planned for at the house design stage, when properly installed to at least entire floor of the house, not to a kitchen floor here and bathroom or entry hall floor there. Floor buildup is usually an additional issue. Our system is only approx. 1/8” thick, perfect for retrofit, kitchen or bath remodeling, additions, hi-rises, condos or new construction.

 

Q: Can this system be used under wood or parquet floors? What is general application guidance?

A: Tiles, stone, slate or even engineered floor covering (like Pergo®) are always great for floor heating.
Wood, on the other hand, is an insulator and ‘does not like to be heated’. Constant heating would eventually drive out its natural moisture with undesirable long term results. Good hardwood floor is at least ½ ” thick and often as much as ¾” or more. That’s too much for the radiant heat to penetrate it well and then still being able to heat the room and its occupants.
Carpet with carpet padding are also not so good for radiant floor heating, because carpet is an insulator, thus by definition it prevents good heat transmission or conduction.

 

Q. Can we have it installed between the joists of the subfloor, from underneath the floor? Our floors are already finished.

A: In general: no. We are aware of the various radiant heating products  advertised or installed from beneath the subfloor. If the subfloor is wood, then this is a strong ‘no’. In general: not a good idea for number of reasons, mostly having to do with poor heat conduction thru several inches of wood, and consequently drying the wood and floor rafters.   

Q. Is this system safe?
A: When installed as intended by the manufacturer, in agreement with NEC and local electrical and building codes and regulations, it is one of the safest heating systems available. No carbon monoxide from a faulty gas heater, no wood chopping or chainsaw adventures, no oil spills or even oil tank or chimney inspections. It is clean, quiet, and safe. Nothing is exposed, nothing other than the thermostat on the wall is visible, and certainly nothing little fingers can touch or push tiny toys into.   
 
Q.; Is this good for the basement remodeling? What if there is a flood?

A: It is perfect for basements! When installed as intended by the manufacturer, in agreement with NEC and local electrical, building codes and regulations and GFI protection, this is very safe and reliable basement floor heating system. 

 

Q.: What if it breaks? How can it be fixed under the floor covering?

 

It never breaks by itself, but can be damaged during or after the installation. Yes, it can be fixed, but with great difficulty. Therefore, proper and not DIY experimental installation is highly recommended. Covering the mats or cables with at least a scratch coat of thinset, self leveling concrete or underlayment right after the initial installation, checking the resistance and electrical continuity during the process is critical. When installed properly electric radiant floor heating will work for many years and Winters  to come.

 

Q.: How long does it take the floor to heat up?

 

A.: It depends how thick the floor is, the initial room temperature and what the settings of the thermostat. Our thermostats control floor temperature, not room temperature. Typical setting for really warm floors are 80-85°F or less, so 75-79°F should be comfortable. It can take anywhere from 20 min. to an hour for the floor to be 70-80°F.

Q.: Can this product be used for outdoor snow and icemelting?

 

A.: No. We offer specific outdoor ELEKTRA products like Elektra SnowTech© in-slab mats with different controls and installation procedures.

 

Q.: Is this information proprietary, specific to ELEKTRA products?

 

A.: No, it is not. While we like, sell and install Elektra products with great success, almost everything here will be very similar to other manufactures products and techniques except for wood, carpets, and under subfloor installations. If interested, please refer to detailed manufacturers recommendations and do not rely entirely on this general guide